As a class, lower income people have been well
represented in some of the best-covered food stories of
our day, particularly hunger, obesity, and diabetes. As
these issues have faded in and out of the public's eye
over the last 25 years, another food trend was rapidly
becoming a national obsession -- namely, local and
organic.
At about the same time that Berkeley diva Alice Waters
was first showing us how to bestow style and grace on
something as ordinary as a local tomato, the Reagan
administration's anti-poor policies were driving an
unprecedented number of people into soup kitchens and
food banks. And as organic food advocates were putting
the finishing touches on what was to become the first
national standard for organic food, supermarket chains
were nailing plywood across their city store windows
bidding farewell to lower income America.
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